High Neck Blouse Drafting and Cutting Process

High Neck Blouse Drafting and Cutting Process
R.S. Balakumar
M.A., M.L.M., MBA,(Exec)
Associate Professor
Hindustan University, Chennai, India.
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com


Introduction:
High Neck with Mandarin Collar saree blouse is the latest fashion trend of traditional Indian women prefer to wear in higher quality of Kanchipuram silk embossed on its surface.

Women prefer to wear this type of blouse during festival collection, Wedding, Party wear, Reception appearance and as well as celebrity collection. Bollywood and Tollywood cine starts prefer to wear this type of blouse, while appearing on wedding reception.

Drafting of High Neck Blouse
Fig: Drafting of High Neck Blouse
Measurements:
Back length = 14”.
Front length = 15 ½”.
Shoulder width = 14”.
Mid Bust = 36”.
Waist = 30”.
Sleeve length 9”.
Sleeve girth = 11”.

High Neck with Mandarin Collar saree blouse
Fig: High Neck with Mandarin Collar saree blouse
Pattern Parts:
Back 1 cut on fold, Front cut 2, Yoke cut 4, Sleeve cut 2, Collar cut 2, Front Placket cut 4.

Fabric Required:
1.0 metre cloth widh = 36”. /0.75 Centimeter if the Cloth width=44 to 48 inches.

Suitable Fabrics:
Kanchi silks, Mysore silks, Manipuri silks and Kashmiri silk.

Drafting Details of High Neck Saree Blouse:

Back part:
1 – 2 = Back length +1/2” [14 ½”].
2 – 3 = Bottom hem 1 ½”.
4 – 1 = Arm depth is 1/6th Bust. [6”].
5 – 1 = ½ shoulder width + ½” [7 ½”].
6 – 5 = Draw a line.
7 – 4 = 1/4th Bust + 1/4th for ease.
8 – 2 = 1/4th Waist + 1”.
9 – 10 = ¾” out, as per draft.
11 – 7 = Side inlays 1 ¼”.
12 – 10 = Side inlays 1 ¼”.
6 – 13 = 1 ¼” at 45
14 – 5 = Shoulder’s slope ¼”.
15 – 1 = Bust/12 + ¼” = [3 ¼”].
16 is mid of 9 to 3.
17 – 16 = Dart length is 5 ½”.
18 – 19 = Dart intake ¾”.

Front part:
1 – 3 = 1/4th Bust + 1”.
1 – 4 = 1/3rd Bust + 1”.
1 – 2 = 1/6th Bust + ¼”.
1 – 5 = ½ Shoulder width + ½”.
6 – 1 = 1/12th Bust + ¼”.
7 – 5 = 1/4th Shoulder’s slope.
8 – 5 = Draw a line.
9 – 2 = 1/4th Bust + ½ for ease.
10 – 9 = Draw a line.
11 – 10 = 1 ½” upward.
12 – 4 = 1 ½” upward.
12 – 13 = ½” outward.
14 – 1 = Front Neck drop 3 ½” to 4” as per desired.
15 – 14 = Front Placket separate 1 ¼”.
16 – 13 = Front Placket separate 1 ¼”.
17 is mid of 8 to 5.
18 – 17 = ½” inward arm hole shape.
19 – 20 = Arm side chart length 3 ½” and intake 5/8”.
21 is mid of 2 to 4.
22 – 21 = Centre side bust dart length 3 ½” and intake 5/8”.
23 – 4 = Bust/12 + ¾”.
24 – 23 = Dart length is 3 ½”.
25 – 23 = 1 ¼” dart.
26 – 23 = 1 ¼” dart.

Yoke part:
27 – 28 = 1/4th Waist + ¾”.
29 – 27 = 3 ½” width.
30 – 29 = 1/4th waist.
31 – 27 = ½” outward.
32 – 31 = ¾” upward.
33 – 29 = 1 ¼” as per draft.
34 – 33 = ½” as per draft.
35 – 36 = 5/8” as per draft.
37 – 28 = Side inlays 1 ¼”.
38 – 36 = Side inlays 1 ¼”.

Mandarin Collar (Tobe cut on inter lining):
1 – 2 = For Bust 36/3 + 2 = 14” is the Neck girth.
1 – 3 = 1 ¼” width.
4 – 3 = Same as 1 to 2.
5 – 4 = ¾” upward.
6 – 5 = 1” upward, shape as per draft.
 
While cutting the fabric allow extra marginal ½”.

Sleeve:
1 – 2 = Sleeve length + ½”.
2 – 3 = Hem 1 ¼”.
2 – 4 = Sleeve girth /2.
5 – 3 = Same as 2 to 4.
5 – 6 = 5/8” outer.
7 – 1 = Bust/2 + ¾”.
7A – 1 = 2 to 4 measure + 1”.
8 – 7A = Inlays 1 ¼”.
9 – 6 = Inlays 1 ¼”.
10 is mid of 7A to 1.
11 – 10 = ¾”.
12 is mid of 7A to 10.
13 – 12 = ¾” inward, front arm shape.

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