Drafting and Cutting Procedure of Katori Blouse Step by Step

Drafting Procedures of 3 Piece Katori Saree Blouse
R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com


Katori is a word derived from Hindi means “cup”. This cup part of the bust portion is set appropriately in the front bust portion and give the elegant look to the wearer and also comfort.

In Katori blouse 3-pieces, and 4-pieces are used in each side of the front portion. This is a traditional wear; classical dancers are used to wear this blouse during the dance performance on the stage. Now a day, this blouse is treated as the celebrity collection and famous for wedding collection.

Fig: Katori blouse
Mostly, women having the mid bust size 36” and above with B-C-D-DD-cup formation (prominent-bust) will be desired to wear this type of blouse. Cine stars mostly prefer to wear this blouse as their regular dress.

Measurements required: 

Back length = 14”. Front length =15 ½”. Mid bust = 36”. Waist = 30”. Shoulder width = 14”. Sleeve length = 8”. Sleeve girth = 11 ½”.

Pattern parts = Back-cut -1(on fold). Front-cut-2(A). Front B- Cut-2. Front C-cut- 4. (waist band or yoke) Sleeve cut-2. Neck bias piece as per neck portion measured.

Suitable materials = cotton, cambric, poplin, voile, pure silk and artificial silk, synthetic, and crepe fabrics are mostly preferable.

Material required = 1.00 metre, cloth width is 36”

Draft details of Back part of Katori blouse:

Draft details of Back part of Katori blouse
Fig: Back part
1-2 = back length +1/2”
2-3 = bottom fold 1 ½”.
4-1 bust/6-1/2” =5 ½”
5-1 = 14/2-1/2” = 5 ½”.

(due to neck widening shoulder to be decreased and get good fitting at back portion.)

6-5 = draw a line.
8-5 = shoulders strap 2”+1”seam margin.
9-2 = 1/4th waist+1= 8 ½”.
10-1 = back neck drop 7”.
10-11 = 3” as per draft,

join 11 to 8.12-11=1 ¼’.

13-6 = 1 ½”.
14-5 = shoulders slope ¼”.
15 is the midpoint of 9 to 2.
16-15 = dart length is 3 ½.”
17-18 = dart intake is ¾”.

KATORI 3-piece front saree blouse.(A)PART.

KATORI 3-piece front saree blouse
Fig: Front part
1-2 = bust/3-1/2” = 11 ½.”
1-3 = bust/6-1/2” = 5 ¾”
1-4 = 1/2 shoulder less 1”
4-5 = 5 ¼”.
5-6 = 1/2”down as per draft.
7-2 = bust/12 = 3”
8-3 = bust/12+1/2”(3 ½”) and connect 7 and 8.
9-8 = 1 ½”at 45degree.
10-4 = 2 ½”shoulders strap+1” for seam.
11-10 = draw a line.
12-11 = 1” as per draft.
13-2 = allow side inlays 1 ½”
14-3 = allow side inlays11/2”

Katori Cup Part Cut-4 pieces (B).

Katori Cup Part Cut-4 pieces
Fig: Katori Cup Part
1-2 = Bust/6+1 ½” = 7 ½”.
3-1= same as 1-2.measure.
4-2 = same as 1-3.
5-1 = bust/12+1/2”=3 ½”.
6-1 = bust/8 minus1/4”.
6-7 = bust/12+1/4”=3 ¼”
6-8 = 1” as per draft.
9-2 = bust/12 minus1/2”=2 ½”
9-10 = bust/6+1 ½”=71/2”

11 is the midpoint of 5-10.

11-12 = 1”at 45degree.
13-2 = bust/12minus1/4” =2.3/4”.
14-13 = 3/4” upward.
15-13 = 1.3/4”as per draft.
16-15 = 1.3/4” ’’ ‘’ ‘’.
17-15 = 1”as per draft.
18-17 = 1/2” as per draft
19-7 = 3/4” at 45 degrees as per draft.

Part-C. (Waist Band Or Yoke)-Cut-4.

Waist Band
Fig: Waist Band
1-2 = 1/4TH waist+1” = 8 ½”
1-3 = 2 ½” waist band width.
3-4 = 1/4th waist+1/2”.
5-6 = 1 ¼”as per draft.

7 is the midpoint of 1 to 2 measure.

6-7-2-13 draw as per draft.
10-11=1/2”as per draft.
12-11 = 1 ½” side inlays.
13-2 = 1 ½” side inlays.

Sleeve-Cut-2.

Fig: Sleeve-Cut
1-2 = Sleeve length+1/2”.
2-3 = 1 ½”bottom fold.
1-4 = bicep depth, bust/8minus 3/4”.
5-4 = bust/6+1”=7”.
6-2 = sleeve girth/2.
7-8 = 1/2”. out ward.
9-8 = inlays 1 ½”to be kept.
10-5 = inlays 1 ½” to be kept.

11 is mid of 1 to 5 measure.

12-11=1” upward.
13 is the mid of 5 to 11.
14-13=3/4”downward.
10-13-12-1=upper arm sleeve (back side)
10-14-11-1=lower arm sleeve (front side)

Fabric Required = 1.25metre, cloth width is 36”

Formula = 2.lengths+2. sleeve lengths+4”. c. w = 36”

Suitable fabrics = cotton, cambric, poplin, crepe, voile, satin, velvet, polyester, synthetic, pure silk, and art silk.

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Picture courtesy: http://rosefashion.shopatkerala.com/
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