Drafting and Cutting Process of Walking Breeches

Drafting and Cutting Details of Walking Breeches

R.S.BALAKUMAR
M.A. (SOCIOLOGY ), M.L.M.(Labour Management),
MBA (EXECUTIVE) in (FASHION-TECH), MISTE., Chennai, India
Cell: +91-9283182955
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com


Walking breeches:

Many gentlemen like to wear these walking breeches. The feature of this garment is designed with more ease and as well as the comfort to the wearer. In the waist to hip portion considerable amount of ease is included in this wear. In western countries men and women prefer to wear this active wear for longer period and in recent time people belongs to hilly areas mostly prepared to wear this wear in and around the world.
walking breeches
Walking breeches
Measurements Required:
  • side seam = 43”,
  • inside leg = 31”,
  • waist = 32”,
  • seat = 38”,
  • knee = 141/2,
  • small = 13,
  • calf = 14”,
  • working scale = 19”.
Drafting Process of Walking Breeches:
Drafting of Breeches
Fig: Drafting of Breeches
Draft Details of Top Side:

Square lines from 0.
  • 1-0 = 1/3rd scale.
  • 1-2 = 1/6 thw.scale.
  • 3-2 = 1/6th scale+1/4.
  • 4-3 = 3/4 Inch.
Square up from 2 to6, the amount of the body-rise.12 1/2 inch. 5-2 is 1/3rdw, scale plus ¼”

6-7 = 2”drop ½ “ from 6 as shown in above fig.

Square out from 6 and 7 from 7 is half waist measure , “spring” out about 3/8 “ from 8 to 9.

A from 2 , diagonally , is half 2-3 plus ¼ “ shape the front , 7-5-A-3. Square downwards from 1 to fix the centre line.

10 from 1 is 1” .for the little extra length required in these garments
11 from 10ia half leg measure less 2”.
12 from 11 is 2 ½ “ 13 from 12 is 3.
14 from 11 is 1”; square down to locate 15.
B from 11 is ¼ knee ; 6 from 12 ia ¼ small ; D from 13 is ¼ calf.
16 from 0 is 1 ¾ “ ; draw aline from 16 to 14.

On this line 17 is midway between 14 and 16 ; mark out about 2” . to J . [ This amount may be varied to taste]. The topside is now complete ; take out “dress” as dot – dash lines.

Draft Details of Underside:


Using B as pivot, sweep out from 3 to 18.

18 from 3 is 1/12 scale plus ¼”.

Draw the seat line from 4 through 5 to 20 , making the last point 1/6 scale plus 1” . above H , located on the original top line of the topside.

Mark out 3/8” at 20 and shape the seat-seam from this point through 19

[2” below 20] and H , as shown ; continue through 5 and hollow from this point down to 18 , indicated.

Draw two lines from point ½” above 8 and 9, respectively, to locate 21 and 22.

Now measure the topside waist from 7 to 8 , place this amount at 19 and continue to 21 , half the waist measure plus 2” ; make 3/8” “spring “ to 22. These points are best fixed by placing the angle of square at the best fixed by placing the angle of square at seat line at points 19 and 20.

M from 20 is 1 ½ “ ; K from M is 1”.

Measure from B to 14, place this amount at B again and continue to 24 the knee measure plus 1 “.

Measure from C to L and from D to 15 in the same way , placing the amounts as described and continuing to 25 and 26 , apply small and calf measures plus 1 “.

P and N are ½” below the knee line for the back cut; connect these points with slight hollow.

Draw the underline leg-seam from 18 to F, which is about ½ “ in from N and ¼” below it .

23 from 16 is 2” .measure along the contour 16 -J-14 of the top side and make the same distance, less ¾ “m from 13 to27.

E from 11 is 1” Measure along the contour N-P and make F-E-27 the same. The run of this contour should cross the line at 28 , half the knee measure from N .

Place balance marks at the side , equal distance from 16 and 23. the topside is fulled into the underside where indicated by the wavy line.  
 

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