Garment Pattern Grading Techniques

Garment Pattern Grading Techniques
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

By following production patterns approved sample is normally made for medium size but if the buyer requires different size then we would have to grade the dimension like S, L, XL, XXL, etc. Grading is an important term in garments manufacturing which means step wise increasing or decreasing the master patterns.
Pattern grading method
Pattern grading method
For grading the following two techniques are commonly used:
Manual Grading: 
The desired range of size is created one by one using pattern templates/master patterns. A first master pattern pieces are sketched on the pattern board and then the points are marked around the pattern pieces as per the direction of grade rules. In this way we can get both the enlarged or reduced size patterns for all sizes of a particular style of garments. A manually operated grading machine can also perform this job. This device grips the master pattern pieces and places on the pattern board as per the predetermined direction after which appropriate edge can be traced out maintaining the grade rule.

  • Cost effective process
  • Time consuming process
  • Expected accuracy may not be obtained.
Computer Aided Grading: 
At first grade rules are stored in the computer memory and then the computer can automatically develop pattern sets for all sizes using the direction given in the grade chart.

  • Quick process i.e. less time consumption;
  • High accuracy may be obtained
  • High initial cost is involved
  • Skilled operator is required.
Two types of grading are generally done in industry:
  1. Half part grading: If the increasing is done in every sides of a pattern, then it called half part grading.
  2. ¼ th part grading: If the grading acquires increasing or decreasing in any two sides of a pattern, then it is called ¼ th part grading. 


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