Causes and Remedies of Sewing Problems

Causes and Remedies of Sewing Problems
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com



Sewing Problems:
Sewing is a basic operation of garments manufacturing. Lots of problems occur during sewing operation. In this article I will discuss on various causes of sewing problems and their remedies.
Sewing problems
Sewing problems
Common Causes and Remedies of Sewing Problems:

A. Problems of stitch formation

i) Slipped stitch: Missing of interloping or interlacing between top and bottom threads.

Causes: 

  • Looper or hook and needle are not properly placed.
  • Irregular thread tension.
  • Needle deflection.
  • Needle threads loop size too small.
Remedies: 
  • Proper placement of needle and looper or hook.
  • Accurate tension maintaining.
  • Needle can be changed.
ii) Staggered stitch: Stitch is not parallel produced by needle.

Causes: 

  • Needle deflection.
  • Due to wrong needle point.
  • Defected motion of feed dog.
  • Wrong adjustment of needle and thread size.
Remedies: 
  • Increase needle size.
  • Needle size and thread size to be altered.
  • Motion of feed dog to be adjusted.
iii) Unbalance Stitch: Improper interlacement of threads especially in lock stitch machine.

Causes: 

  • Wrong tension of sewing thread.
  • Used wrong thread path.
  • Snagging of needle with bobbing case.
Remedies: 
  • Setting of proper tension to the sewing threads.
  • Use of right thread path.
  • Bobbin case to be smooth.
iv) Variable stitch density: Number of stitch per unit length is not equal.

Causes:

  • Improper unwinding of thread from package during sewing.
  • Twisting of needle thread in the bottom of thread package.
  • Snarling of thread before tension disk.
  • Use of broken check spring.
  • Fraying of thread in the needle.
Remedies: 
  • The position of thread guide must be 2.5 times higher than the position of thread package.
  • Foam pad must be used to the bottom of thread package.
  • Winding of more threads in the thread guide.
  • Check spring need to be changed.
  • Finer threads must be used or to be used heavy needle.
v) Frequent thread breakage: Thread breaking frequently during sewing.

Causes: 

  • More tension to the bobbin threads or more rotating of bobbin.
  • Wrong fitting of bobbin case.
Remedies: 
  • Proper winding of threads on to the bobbin.
  • The tension must be adjusted to the bobbin threads.
  • Checking out the damaging case.
B. Problem of puckers:

Causes: 

  • Variable or uneven stretch on fabric plies.
  • Fabric dimensional instability.
  • Extension of sewing thread.
  • Sewing threads shrinkage.
  • Fabric construction
  • Mismatched patterns.
Remedies: 
  • Proper feed mechanism should be used with equal ply stretch.
  • Fabric shrinkage property must be almost equal.
  • Using less tension to the thread.
  • Fabric and sewing thread shrinkage% should be equal.
  • By reducing stitch density for heavy fabric.
  • Pattern should be matched properly.
C. Damage of fabrics on seam line: 
Fabrics or threads are damaged along the seam line during sewing.

Causes: 

  • Mechanical damage. 
  • Needle heating damage.
Remedies: 
  • By using perfect size and shape of needle and needle point.
  • By testing sew ability before sewing fabrics.
  • By flowing cool air on the needle during sewing.
  • By using lubricant to the needle and fabrics to the sewing line. 
 
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Editor-in-Chief:

Mazharul Islam Kiron is a textile consultant and researcher on online business promotion. He is working with one European textile machinery company as a country agent. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.


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