Sateen Weave - An Overview

Sateen Weave - An Overview
Md. Enamul Haque
Department of Textile Engineering,
Khulna University of Engineering and Technology (KUET)
Khulna-9203, Bangladesh.

Sateen Weave:
A weave in which warp threads interlace with filling threads to produce a smooth-faced fabric. A sateen fabric tends to have a high luster due to the high number of floats on the fabric. Sateen weaves produce a smooth, even and glossy fabric surface. This is due to the interlacing points being covered up by the floats of the neighboring threads.

Features of satin/sateen
  1. The fabric surface is very smooth and lustrous.
  2. By using low twisted yarn and by increasing EPI, smoothness can be increased.
  3. Only one interlacement between warp and weft.
  4. The interlacement point is covered with adjacent long float yarn.
  5. No. of cross mark or base mark is equal to the no. of threads in repeat.
  6. Loose structure compare to plain and twill.
  7. No visible twill line.
  8. Widely used in case of jacquard design.
Classification of satin/sateen
Classification of sateen weave
Classification of sateen weave
Warp satin
If the prominence of warp floating are seen on the fabric, this satin are called warp satin. Warp satin is expressed by 1/x  (y). Where, x = warp face, y = move number (step value)

Regular warp satin:
  • Warp satin is woven so that the warp may be seen on the surface of the fabric.
  • Reflection of light on the floats gives satin fabric its primary characteristic of luster, which appears in the direction of the warp.
  • Select repeat size
  • Identify move number 
Regular warp satin
Regular warp satin
Irregular warp satin:
  • There is no step value or move number to construct the irregular satin.
  • Only 4 – end and 6- end satins are irregular.
  • Straight drafting system is used to produce this weave. 
Irregular warp satin
Irregular warp satin
Weft sateen
If the prominence of weft floating are seen on the fabric surface, this sateen are called weft sateen. Weft sateen is expressed by 1/x  (y). where, x = weft face, y = move number

Regular weft sateen:
  • Select repeat size
  • Fixed move number.
Regular weft sateen
Regular weft sateen
Irregular weft sateen:
  • There is no step value or move number to construct the irregular sateen.
  • Only 4 – end and 6- end sateens are irregular.
  • Straight drafting system is used to produce this Weave.
Irregular weft sateen
Move number
The distance between two adjacent interlacing points are known as move number or step value.

Usable step values for satin weaves

Advantages and disadvantages of satin weave
These constructions produce smooth, lustrous, rich-looking fabrics that give reasonably good service if they are not subjected to excessive hard wear. Short float fabrics are more durable than long-float fabric. When style calls for luxurious fabrics for formal wear, satin is often chosen. It is an especially suitable fabric for coat linings.

Satin weave usually requires more shafts in the weaving than do the plain or twill weaves, there by increasing the cost of production.

End uses
Satin is commonly used in apparel: satin baseball jackets, athletic shorts, women's lingerie, nightgowns, blouses, and evening gowns, but also in some men's boxer shorts, briefs, shirts and neckties. It is also used in the production of pointe shoes for use in ballet. Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics, upholstery, and bed sheets.


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