Drafting Procedures of Single Pleated Trousers

Drafting Procedures of Single Pleated Trousers

R.S. Balakumar
M.A.(SOCIOLOGY ), M.L.M.(Labour Management), Pursuing MBA (EXECUTIVE) in (FASHION-TECH), MISTE.,
Chennai, India
Cell: +91-9283182955
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com



Introduction:
Single pleated front trouser belongs to men’s wear collection, suitable to wear as formal and official wear. Due to front pleat construction gives more comfort to the fore part of the wearer.side pockets are to be constructed and one hip pocket, front waist watch pockets are to be required.
Single Pleated Trousers
Measurements required:
  • Side length = 40”.
  • Body rise = 10” [with waist band 1 ½”
  • Waist = 30”
  • Seat = 36”
  • Bottom = 16”
  • Working scale = 18”.
Suitable materials: Cotton 100%, terene, terry cotton, poly-viscose cotton, terry wool, polyester and so on.

Fabric required: 1.30 mtr cloth width 54”to 60”

Drafting Details of Single Pleat Trousers:
Drafting Details of Single Pleat Trousers
Front part:
  • 1-2 = 1 1/2”
  • 3-4 = hem 1 1/2”
  • 5-1 = body rise 10+1/2” for seam .
  • 5-6 = 1/6th working scale .
  • 7 is the middle of 3 to 5 measure.
  • 7-8 = 2” upward [knee line].
  • 9-6 = pleat ease 1 ½”
  • 10-9 = seat/4.
  • 10-11 = 12= draw a line.
  • 13-12 = 1/8th working scale.
  • 14 is the middle of 5 to 13 measures.
  • 15-14-16 draws a line [crease line].
  • 18-16 = 1/4th bottom.
  • 19-16 = 1/4th bottom.
  • 24-17 = 1/4th bottom + 3/4”.
  • 25-17 = 1/4th bottom+3/4”.
  • 26-12 = 11/4” at 45 degree..
  • 27-11 = 1/4th waist+2 ¼”[pleat and seam]
  • 27-28 = 1 ½”.
  • 29-28 = 6 ¼” side pocket open.
  • 20-21 = 1/2”.
  • 22-23 = 1/2”.
Back part:
  • 13-30 = ½” down
  • 31-30=1/8th working – scale.
  • 32-24=1”.
  • 33-18=1”.
  • 34-11=1 ½”.
  • 35-34=1 ½” Upward .
  • 35-36=1/4th waist+2”.
  • 37-36=3 ½”.for dart location.
  • 37-39=2 ½” for second dart location.
  • 38-37=3 ¼” down and
  • 38 to 48 hip pocket width 4 ½”.
  • 41-42=1/4th hip+1 ¼” allow inlays on inseam,[1”] out seam [1”] waist top portion [1/2”] accordingly.
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