Drafting and Cutting Procedures of the Women’s Saree Blouse

Drafting and Cutting Procedures of the Women’s Saree Blouse
 
R.S. Balakumar
M.A.(SOCIOLOGY ), M.L.M.(Labour Management), Pursuing MBA (EXECUTIVE) in (FASHION-TECH), MISTE.,
Chennai, India
Cell: +91-9283182955
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com



Introduction:
Is a women’s upper torso wear. Mostly the Indian women’s of all groups will have eager to wear this dress, while wearing the saree as their costume. Many styles and designs are continuously introduced by our fashion designers. So, saree is treated as a women’s best friend. Many women’s prepare to make their own saree blouse and likely to wear. Even now foreigners (woman’s) visiting India would be preferred to wear the sari blouse.
Blouse with saree
Measurement required:
  • Back length -36.cm.
  • Front length-39cm.
  • Shoulder width-36cm.
  • Across back width-33 cm.
  • Upper breast-88cm.
  • Mid bust-92cm.
  • Lower breast-81cm.
  • Waist-76cm.
  • Sleeve length-28 cm.
  • Sleeve girth-27cm.
Suitable materials: 
Cotton, poplin, 2x2 cotton, polyester, silk, synthetic, and chiffon with lining .

Material required: 
2 lengths + 1 sleeve length+10cm or approximate estimation-1metre.(cloth width-92cm)

Pattern parts:  
  • Back cut-1, 
  • front cut-2, 
  • waist yoke cut-4, 
  • sleeve cut-2, 
  • neck bias piece as required, front placket cut-3.(front hook fastening).
Drafting Details Saree Blouse:
Drafting saree and blouse
Drafting saree and blouse
Back part:
  • 1-2 = Back length + 1.2 cm.
  • 3-2 = Bottom fold 3.5cm.
  • 4-1 = Armhole depth, Bust 16.
  • 5-4 = Neck Drop 2.5cm.
  • 6-1 = ½ shoulder (-) 2.5 cm.
  • 7-6 = as per draft.
  • 8-4 = 1/4th Bust + 1.2 cm.
  • 9-2 = 1/4th waist + 2.5 cm for dart intake, each 1.2 cm. Two darts are to be constructed.
  • 10-11 = 1.2 cm
  • 12-6 = 1.2 cm as per draft.
  • 13-6 = 9cm.
  • 14-13 = draw as per draft.
  • 15-7 = 4cm, as per draft. 16 is middle of 2 to 9 measure.
  • 17-16 = 12 cm dart length.
  • 18 to 19 = 2.5cm dart intake. Keep side seam margin 2.5cm extra.
Front part:
  • 1-2 = 1/3rd Bust + 2.5 cm
  • 1-3 = 1/4th Bust + 2.5 cm.
  • 1-4 = 1/6th Bust.
  • 1-5 = ½ shoulder (or) 1/6th Bust girth.
  • 6-5 = as per draft.
  • 7-4 = 1/4th Bust + 1.2 cm.
  • 8-7 = as per draft.
  • 9-5 = 1.2 cm.
  • 10-5 = 9 cm.
  • 11-4 = 2.5 cm 12 is middle of 5 to 6.
  • 12-13=1.2 cm.
  • 14-10 = 11 as per draft.
  • 15-2 = Dart distance is 1/12th Bust +1.2 cm.
  • 16-15 = 2.5 cm, dart intake.
  • 17-15 = 2.5 c m. as per draft.
  • 18-15 = 7.5 cm dart length.
  • 19-2 = 4 cm.
  • 20-19 = 1.2 cm. 21 is midpoint of 19 to 11.
  • 22 - 21 = 7.5 cm dart length and intake 1.2 cm.
  • 23 - 8 = 4cm
  • 24-23 = 1.2 cm.
  • 25 – 26 = 9cm dart length and dart intake is 1.2cm. Side seam margin is 4 cm as per draft.
Waist Band (yoke):
  • 27 – 28 = 1/4th waist + 1.2 cm.
  • 29-27 = 8 cm
  • 29-30 = 1/4th waist.
  • 31 – 27 = 1.2 cm.
  • 31 – 32 = 2.5 cm.
  • 29-33 = 2.5 cm.
  • 34 – 33 = 1.2 cm side seam margin 4cm as per draft.
Sleeve:
  • 1-2 = Sleeve length + 1.2 cm.
  • 2-3, Bottom Fold 4 cm.
  • 1-4 = Bicep depth is 1/12th Bust + 2.5 cm.
  • 5-4 = 1/6th Bust + 1.2 cm
  • 6-4 = 1/6th Bust + 1.2 cm.
  • 7-2 = ½ sleeve girth
  • 8-2 = 1.2 cm 13 is 1/3rd of 1 to 5 measure. 14 is 1/3rd of 1 to 5 measures.
  • 13 – 15 = 1.2cm as per draft.
  • 16-14 = 1.2 cm, as per draft. 17 is 1/3rd of 6 to 1 distance. 18 is 1/3rd of 6 to 1 distance.
  • 19 – 17 = 1.2 cm as per draft.
Material required: 
1.00 metre. Cloth width is 36inch.

Suitable Material: 
Cotton, poplin polyester, silk, synthetic, chiffon, voile, organdey.

Conclusion:
Garment pattern making is based on a simple mathematical calculation as per drafting method.as well as the technical knowledge with skill ness is required. Draping method involves in preparing the pattern also need to have more practical knowledge. Beginners must prepare the paper pattern and then transferred in to muslin cloth. After stitching, the garment must undergo the process of dress form fitting or the live model fitting is good to get the result.

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