Quality Factors in Fabric Spreading

Quality Factors in Fabric Spreading
Rahat Khan
Dept. of Apparel Manufacturing
Atish Dipankar University of Science and Technology
Cell: +8801717781833
Email: rahat.info@gmail.com



Fabric Spreading:
Fabric spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layers (plies) of specified length. It is preparatory process of cutting fabric. Fabric spreading is done after marker making. Fabric spreading is so much important part of a garments industry to cut the fabric and sewing properly and proper shape. Maintaining quality in fabric spreading is an important factor. In previous article, I have discussed about types of fabric lay in spreading.
Fabric spreading
Quality factors in spreading:
  • A vertical straight edge must be maintained.
  • The two ends of the finished spread must be kept vertical and maintained finished spread length; this is done by marking the table at each end of the spread (4 marks) and by cutting off each ply exactly to these marks. The length of the spread will be length of the marker, plus a small allowance called LAY END allowance, usually 1 inch (depending on the fabric).
  • All spreads should be made without either tension or slack. A tight spread is one in which plies have been stretched during the spreading process, whilst unrolling or transporting the plies from the opposite end the cloth has been subjected to tension and the plies are actually laid on the spread in a stretched condition. Such a spread will contract, either before the final ply is made, or whilst waiting to be cut, after spreading is completed. This will result in contraction of the cut components. As the contraction is likely to continue even after cutting a tight spread can be detected during spreading by inspecting the ends where it will be noticed at the spread is becoming shorter than the table marks. The ply ends will tend to shrink towards the centre of the spread.
Common problems in spreading:
  • A slack spread: Possesses excess length within the ends of the spread, it appears as billows and ridges on the surface of the spread. Cut components for a slack spread will be observed. Excess length can be measured by gently stroking the billows towards one end and on both ends of the spread. It will be found that some of the ply will have to be cut off in order to keep the ends vertical. Thus a slack spread is also a wasteful spread. 
  • Tight selvedge: A tight selvedge will billow in the centre of the spread, i.e. in the centre of the cloth width the tight end will be flat. To remedy the tight selvedge must be notched at frequent intervals, or if necessary cut off completely. 
  • Bowing: Bowing is the angular distortion of the weft yarns which creates stress in the fabric and variations in slackness and tightness in the spread. Such variations produce cut components which are both undersized and oversized. Tight selvedges and bowing often go together. Pieces with these defects should be rejected at inspection. 
 

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