Performance of Sewing Needles in Industrial Sewing Machines

The Performance of Sewing Needles in Industrial Sewing Machines

R.S.BALAKUMAR
M.A.(SOCIOLOGY ), M.L.M.(Labour Management), Pursuing MBA(EXECUTIVE) in (FASHION-TECH), MISTE.,
Chennai, India
Cell: +91-9283182955
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com




The functions of the sewing needles in general are:
  • To produce a hole in the fabric for the sewing thread to pass through and to do so without forming any damage to the fabric.
    Sewing Needles in Industrial Sewing Machines
    Sewing Needles in Industrial Sewing Machines
  • To carry the sewing needle thread through the material and therefore a loop which can be pricked up by the hook on the bobbin case in a lock stitch machine or by the looper or other mechanism in other sewing machines.
  • To pass the sewing needle thread through the loop formed by the looper mechanism or machines other than lock stitch.
Parts of a sewing machine needle
The function s of the sewing machine needles in relation to its parts and their role is most satisfactory seam constructions and performance.
Parts of a sewing machine needle
Parts of a sewing machine needle
The commonest Needle shape, with its various sections labelled, mentioned have under:
  1. Shank
  2. Shoulder
  3. Blade
  4. Long groove
  5. Short groove
  6. Eye
  7. The scarf or clearance cut. 
A short description of the above parts are given below:
 
Shank:
Is the upper part of the needle which locates within the needle bar. It may be cylindrical or have a flat side, according to how it is secured into the machine. It is the support of the sewing machine needle as a whole and is usually larger in diameter than the rest of the needle for reasons of strength.

Shoulder:
Is the section intermediate between the shank and the blade, the latter farming the longest part of the sewing needle down the eye.

Blade:
Is subject to the greatest amount of friction from the fabric through which the needle passes. In needles designed for use in high speed sewing machines the shoulder is often extended into the upper part of the blade to give a thicker cross – section which enters the fabric when the needle is at its lowest point on each stitch.

Long groove:
Is the blade provides a protective channel is which the thread is drawn down through the material during stitch formation.

Short groove:
Is on the side of the needle which is towards the hook or looper and is a groove which extends a little above and below the eye. It is in the formation of the loop in the needle thread.

The Eye:
The needle is having the hole extending through the blade from the long groove on one side to the short groove on the other.

The shape of the inside of the eye at the top is critical both in reducing thread damage at the needle penetrate the fabric and producing a good loop formation.

The scarf or clearance cut:
It recess across the whole face of the needle just above the eye. Its purpose is to enable a closer setting of the hook or looper to the needle. This ensures that the loop of needle thread will be more readily entered by the point of the hook or looper.

The point of the needle is shaped to provide the best penetration of each type of material according to its native and the appearance that has been produced.

The tip is the extreme and of the point which combines with the point in defining the penetration performance.

Needle sizes:
Needles are available in a wide range of sizes and the choice of since is always determined by the fabric and thread combination which is to be sewn.

Different needle manufacturers use their own nomenclature to describe needle sizes but the simplest sizing system is the metric one. The metric size or Nm of a needle is related to the diameter at a point at the middle of the blade above the scarf or short groove but below any reinforced part. This measurement, in millimetres, multiplied by 100, gives the metric number. Thus a diameter of 0.9mm is an Nm 90; a diameter of 1.1mm is an Nm 110. Needle and thread sizes.

Cloth points Needles:
Ball point – Embroidery – Jeans – Jersey – Leather – Metafile – Micro fibre – Quilting Serge – Silk – Standard – stretch Needles are being manufactured to cater the need of garment construction with different types of fabric weight and construction. Hand sewing needles, cutting needles, woven cloth needles are also being manufactured. Now – a – days sewing needles are required with a highly specialized and technological environment of manufacturing by using with highly specialised equipment, strict quality control and highly specialised and environmentally friendly packing is made in the sewing needles factory.

Ball Point Needles
  • Size - 70 to100
  • Finish - Nickel Plated
  • Material- Stainless steel
  • Used for- Jersey, Stretch and synthetic fabrics.
Embroidery Needles
  • Finish - Nickel Plated
  • Material- High carbon steel wire
  • Selected Product type -Plain Eye
  • Size - 70-90
Jeans Needles
  • Size Range- 90 to100
  • Finish - Nickel Plated
  • Material- High carbon steel wire
Jersey Needle
  • Size Range 70 to90
  • Finish Nickel plated
  • Material High carbon steel wire
Leather Needles
  • Finish Nickel Plated
  • Material High carbon steel wire
  • Selected Product type Plain Eye
  • Blade like point Pierce through leather, Suede and heavy materials
Metafil Needles
  • Size range 70 to 100
  • Finish Nickel plated
  • Material High carbon steel wire
  • Usage for synthetic filament threads will give good result.
Conclusion:
Using of appropriate needles, thread, fabric is very much important to get defect free garments. Each should match with each other for achieving expected quality oriented garment. The study of needles, thread, and fabric plays the vital role in applying in sewing floor operations.

Now a day’s customers are very much particular about the quality consciousness. They prepared to buy the defect free garments. Even the export garments are undergoing with several inspection process to eliminate the garment mistakes and to satisfy their global clients, buyers and international customers. Even now India’s famous brands are having strict quality control process steps towards achieving zero defect oriented garments.

References:
  1. TECHNOLOGY OF CLOTHING MANUFACTURE-LATHAM CARR.
  2. INTRODUCTIONTO GARMENT TECHNOLOGY- GERRY COOKLIN. 
 

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