Essential Garment Terms and Definition

Essential Garment Terms and Definition
Mazedul Hasan Shishir
Production Officer at Intramax Group

Different types of terms and definition are used in apparel sector in day to day life. A number of garments terms and glossary are given below.

Accessories: Accessories or Garment accessories means all the items used in the garment except the main raw material (Fabric). There are many items used to manufacture the garments, which are used as accessories.

AQL: Acceptance Quality Limit

Apron: Apron a garment of cloth, plastic, or leather tied around the waist and used to protect clothing or adorn a costume

Armband: A band usually worn around the upper part of a sleeve for identification or in mourning

Armor: Armor defensive covering for the body, generally made of metal, used in combat. Usually thought of as armor worn in medieval times. Bullet proof clothing can be considered as modern day armor.

Arm scye: The arm hole of sleeve in a particular garment is named as arm scye.

Allowance: Additional measurement which added with body measurement in case of garments making.

Applique: Additional fabric added in the face side of the garments for increasing the beauty of the dress which is called aplique.

Back rise: Distance between CRUTCH TO CENTER BACK WAIST LINE.

Basting: It is the temporary sewing by hand or m/c before doing final stitching for better fitting.

Bust point: Focusing point of the chest is called bust point.

Bodice: The part of ladies dress which stay neck to waist.

Back stitch: A type of hand stitch which is use for garment sewing.

Bodkin: The m/c used for making hole on the fabric is called bodkin.

Cheese: it is cylinder shape thread package in which thread in cross wound.

Closing: It is an operation in which side seam is join in the garment or join lining with fore part.

Collar: It is the part of the garment (shirt, polo-shirt etc) which stay round the neck.

Cuff: It is the end point of a sleeve of a shirt laying around the wrist.

Cone: It is a triangle form of thread packages.

Clem: It is a small dart which produced by sewing but not cut the fabric.

Crease: To give crease mark on the fabric or garments/ any kind of creasing or folding in clothes.

CST: Computing standard time.

CPM: Cost price per minute.

CMT: Cost of making with trimmings/Cutting, making and Trimmings cost/Cost of making time.

CNT/NT: Computing normal time/Normal time.

Cross Pocket; Side pocket of trouser.

Crocking; Colour is fading after rubbing from dry or wet cloth.

Double faced: The fabric which both side is same and both side can be focused, it is called double faced.

Double Faceed: Symmetric fabric, both side same.

Drape; The shape of fabric, after hanging.

Donkey: Pressing board, is used for pressing.

Drop Loop; When waist band loop is placed 1-2 cm below of top waist line.

Darning/mending: When fabric hole is repaired by needle and yarn.

Dummy: This is a duplicate model of doll similar to human body construction used for garments fittings.

Ends: Wrap direction threads of fabric are called ends.
Ease or Loose Dress: Keeping excess fabric for comfort using.

Epaulet: Strap on shoulder for a shirt or jacket.

Fore part: The face side of the garments which use on the upper part of the body is called fore part.

Fork/Crutch/crotch: The part in which inside leg seam of the part is join, this part is called crutch.

Front rise: Distance between crutch to face side of waist band of a garment/pant is called front rise.

Fusing: The method by which fusible interlining is joining with the garments is called fusing.

Faced Cloth: When face side of fabric is different from other side. e.g. Flannel fabric.

Fall: Collar fall, back width of collar after folding.

Fofk; Crutch of trouser.

Fullness; Extra fabric is used for getting shape of a part of a dress. e.g. Sleeve head.

Forearm Line: A line from middle of “front arm hole” to the end of sleeve at thumb.

Fagot Stitch; Zigzag stitch by maintaining gap between two fabrics.

Grinning; Sewing by loose thread tensions, as a result gap in sewing line.

Grown-on-Facing: Plain front facing (Facing made by fabric folding inside).

Godet: When interlining is used under embroidery.
Gusset: To increase the strength or fitting or shape of garments, some extra fabrics are used which is called gusset.

Neatening: The process of sewing in cutting edge of the fabric so that the slack yarn can not be opened.

N.S.A: No sewing allowance.

Hanger Appeal: The shape of garments when hang on Hanger.

Interfacing: When interlining is used inside facing.

Inset: When extra fabric is used for better fitting.

Jigger: Button, which is attach inside of the garments. e.g. shank button of double brast coat.

Laying-up: Process of fabric laying.

Leaf Edge; The edge of collar which is hanging after folding.

Linking: In sweater Factory, when two fabrics are joined by linking machine.

Lashing: When interlining is attached with facing by using Blind stitch machine.

Make through (Sample man): Who attach all parts of a garments.

Making-up; It is process to make garments from fabric.

Marking-in: Marking, when pencil is moved around the patterns.
Off Pressing: Final pressing after sewing the garments.

Off Grain: When weft yarn is not maintaining 90° with selvedge.

SMV: Standard minutes value.

Sewing Out: When stitching is done by keeping sewing allowance inside.

Sewing Round: When lining is attached with shell at the edge of all parts of a garments.

Seam Busting; When pressing is done on seam for placing fabric both side equally.

Shirring: When elastic thread is used as looper thread for making gathering stitch.

Straight Line System: Line system production.

SAM: Sum of all minutes.

TST: Total standard time.

Thread Marking: Temporary stitching for testing fitting of a garments.

Templet: It is plastic or metal or hand paper, which is used for making pattern or use as guide for fabric cutting.

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Mazharul Islam Kiron is a textile consultant and researcher on online business promotion. He is working with one European textile machinery company as a country agent. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.

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