Interlining in Apparel- Complete Know How

INTERLINING IN APPAREL – COMPLETE KNOW HOW

Amarnath Sharma
MBA, NIFT-Bangalore, India
Email: sharmaamarnath1973@gmail.com






Interlining:
For smooth, luxurious feeling, quality finish, custom made look and comfortable wearing, interlining plays very important role in a garment. It is a kind of trims, which is almost used in every apparel. According to application interlining divided into two categories as follows;
  • Fusible interlining and
  • Non-fusible interlining.
About 90% apparel made with fusible interlining and only some extra delicate, special kind of material (fabric) stitched with non fusible interlining i.e. georgette, chiffon, silk, very light transparent kind of delicate fabric, crape or sheer sucker fabric etc. For non-fusible interlining, mostly shell fabric used as interlining or similar color woven interlining may also be used. Since fused interlining is being used in most of the apparel, following is some technical points, which must be taken care while any decision regarding the same.
Interlining in Apparel
Interlining in Apparel
Fusible interlining:
Fused interlining should be ideally fused to low temperature, easy to sew, should have excellent adaptability and there should not appear any bubbling after washing. In following five areas thought required before going for mass production of apparel with fused interlining;
  1. Selection of material
  2. Identification of apparel parts, where interlining required
  3. Method
  4. Selection of machine
  5. Quality check points
1. Selection of material: 
Selection of appropriate interlining according to fabric is very important. Different kind of interlining available for different fabric and different application. A brief description is as follows;

Woven Fabric:
  • Thermal bonded: Thermal bonded on woven microdot fusible interlining, available with excellent adaptability and co-polyamide coating makes this interlining very suitable for light weight fabrics like georgette, moss crape, cotton voile, silk, rayon etc. Plenty of kinds available in this category of interlining for different use. Through sample test it is easy to identify the correct requirement. 
  • Chemical bonded: Chemical bonded non-woven interlining is thicker than thermal bonded and is good for heavy fabric coat, jacket etc. and because of its less pilling and excellent elasticity suitable for knitted fabric also. In this segment also plenty of verities available for different needs. 
  • Scattered coated interlining: Coating for adaptability is less in this Interlining and it is used for economical garments. 
  • Twill range: Polyester woven range fusible interlining available in many verities for many applications. This category is good for light weight suiting fabrics in men’s wear. Two-way fusible interlining: In thermal bonded categories fine microdot two way fusible interlining available for special application.
Knits and Woolens:
  • Circular knitted range: Plenty of interlining available in this category for knits fabric. This segment of interlining is light weight, soft and equipped with good elasticity in bias and keeps stable shrinkage after dry-clean and wash. Different bondage level, thickness, color and Quality available for different needs and uses.
  • Tricot fusible: this category also available in many verities and mostly used for knits and sophisticated apparel. It is excellent for width and bias elasticity.
Leather Apparel:  
  • Thermal bonded and chemical bonded category is applicable for leather garment. Although while putting interlining in leather, care must be taken for face side of leather must not be hard or burnt.
2. Identification of parts of apparel where fusing required:
It is very important to identify the area where interlining is required. This identification is based on many criteria and some of them are as below;
  • Construction wise: According to apparel construction area may be selected where interlining required. Such as it may be put in armhole and side of loose and soft fabric like satin, silk etc to avoid seam slippage, puckering and roping etc. In bound buttonhole or any kind of button and snap which is on single layer, required fused interlining for extra strength. Pocket flap, placket, waistband need fused interlining for extra strength and smooth finish of apparel. 
  • Smooth, luxurious and comfortable finish: Collar, cuff, facing, side vent, slit end and fused taping for stability on parts which would receive stretch during wear etc need fused interlining.
3. Method: 
While putting interlining through machine method development is very important. Four things should be examined very carefully while taking any decision regarding fused interlining:
  • Pressure
  • Time (speed for moving belt type machine) and
  • Temperature and
  • How to arrange and feed in machine (fabric with lining)
These entire four things should be set through sample testing before going for bulk production. For flat bed and roller type machinery these four aspects should be set as per requirement. While deciding pressure, time and temperature adhesive on other side, air bubbles, yellowness in fabric etc. should be taken care off.

Following is a guideline for different kind of fusible interlining;

4. Selection of machine: 
Machine selection is very important and it plays very significant role for any kind of fused interlining decision. Mainly there are two kinds of machine available movable roller type and flat bed type.

Roller type; most commonly used machine in industry. Since most of the fusible interlining is attached on parts, this is the effective machine.

Latest machinery has been developed to heat by steam instead of heating element for power saving.

Flat bed type; this machinery is useful when interlining is attached on complete garment. Through this extra crease may be avoided on rest of the apparel but this is very rarely used method and hence this machine is also rarely used in industry.

5. Quality check points: 
Since fused interlining is an important process in apparel manufacturing, following points need to be taken care of very carefully;
  • Respect to color, optics, material composition and properties of the material shall meet the quality standard as required.
  • Chemical fibre material shall be provided with permanent antistatic finish.
  • Attention shall be paid to an even dying of the material.
  • Fused interlining should not come off, at least till five washes.
  • Interlining must not come loose.
  • While putting fused interlining no loose and colored threads should be in between.
  • No weave defects, slubs, holes, color defect, soiling etc should be there.
  • Temperature of machine should be checked through temperature check strip, at least twice in a day and hence temperature creates quality in fusible interlining, a written record should be kept along with tested strip.
  • Adhesive must not glare from other side through excessive heat.
  • Wash shrinkage must be check before going for mass production.
  • Different kind of interlining for different material should be identified through proper testing.
Conclusion: 
Proper test required from trained professional regarding all above and this may be considered as only an idea. Interlining required for better finish look and appeal in apparel, which affects the salability of the apparel.

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