Determination of Fabric Consumption of a Dress Shirt or Formal Shirt

Determination of Fabric Consumption of a Dress Shirt
Sheikh Nurja
B.Sc. Engineer of Textile
Merchandiser
E-mail: engineer.nurja@gmail.com
Facebook: Sheikh Nurja




Introduction:
To determine fabric consumption of any garments we face many problem with memorizing problem of equation. So, here presenting a simple way of fabric consumption determination system of dress shirt which may be helpful for all of us.

Shirt:
The cloth which is for the upper part of the body is called shirt. It was discovered by Flinders Petrie. Shirts can be of different types. Major two types are:
  1. Casual shirt
  2. Dress shirt
Others types are as follows:
  1. Camp shirt
  2. Polo – shirt
  3. T-shirt
  4. Henley shirt
  5. Sweatshirt etc.
Dress Shirt:
In other words dress shirt is known as formal shirt. Special features of dress shirt are as follows-
  • A dress shirt should have a formal collar
  • It will contain full sleeve with cuff
  • It will have full-length opening at the front from the collar to the hem
  • It will contain clean button and stiff collar and cuff 
Dress shirt
For evaluating fabric consumption of a dress shirt at first we have to know about the basic parts of a dress shirt.

Basic parts of dress shirt:
Anatomy of Dress Shirt
  1. Main body
  2. Sleeve
  3. Collar
  4. Cuff
  5. Pocket
  6. Placket Box
  7. Top centre
Formula:
For evaluating fabric consumption, there is nothing to memorize any formula of fabric consumption determination. It’s all about calculation sense. If we know about the area calculation of a rectangle than I want to say that we also know about the calculation of fabric consumption.

For determination of fabric consumption of any parts of a woven shirt, we have to take reading length and maximum width of this part of shirt. And then we have to multiply length with width to find out the area of fabric required of this part and other should be followed as unit terms.

Measurement of a dress shirt (inch): 
(on which shirt I am working, you can try your one)
  • Centre Back length = 30”
  • Chest = 46”
  • Sleeve Length = 24”
  • Arm hole = 20”
  • Collar Length = 16”
  • Collar height = 4”
  • Pocket Length = 6”
  • Pocket width = 5.5”
  • Cuff Length = 9”
  • Cuff width = 3”
  • Across Back = 20”
  • Yoke Height = 4”
  • Top centre width = 1.5”
  • Top centre Length = 28”
For Body required fabric: {( Centre Back Length + allowance)*(Chest + allowance)}*12 inch2

= {(30+2)*(46+3)}*12 inch2
= 33*49*12 inch2
= 19404 inch2

For sleeve required fabric: {( Sleeve length+allowance) * ( Arm hole + allowance)}*2*12 inch2

= {(24+2)*(20+2)}*2*12 inch2
= 26*22*2*12 inch2
= 13728 inch2

For collar required fabric : {(collar length + allowance) * ( collar width+allowance)}*12 inch2

= {(16+2)*(4+2)}*12 inch 2
= 18*6*12 inch2
= 1296 inch2

For pocket required fabric : {(Pocket Length + allowance)*(Pocket width+allowance)*12 inch2

= {(6+1)*(5.5+1)}*12 inch2
= 7*6.5*12 inch2
= 546 inch2

For Cuff required fabric : {(Cuff length + allowance)*(cuff width + allowance)}*12 inch2

= {(9+1)*(3+1)}*12 inch2
= 10*4*12 inch2
= 480 inch2

For Back Yoke required fabric : {(Across back + allowance)*(yoke height + allowance)}*12 inch2

= {(20+1)*(4+1)}*12 inch2
= 21*5*12 inch2
= 1260 inch2

For top centre required fabric :{(top centre length+allowance)*(top centre width + allowance)}*12 inch2

= {(28+2)*(1.5+1)}*12 inch2
= 30*2.5*12 inch2
= 900 inch2

Total fabric Area (Sum of above value) : (19404+13728+1296+546+480+1260+900) inch2
                                                               = 37614 inch2

Let,
Fabric width : 56”
Marker Width : 55”

So, Fabric required = 37614/55 inch

= 684 inch
= 684/36 yds/dz
= 19 yds/dz

So, Fabric consumption,

= 19 yds/dz+7%(wastage %)
= 19+7% of 19 yds/dz
= 19 + 1.33 yds/dz
= 19/12 yds/piece
= 1.58 yds/piece

In short cut way we can find out fabric consumption of a Dress shirt in following way:-

= 48804/2016 + 7% yds/dz
=24.2 + 7% of 24.21 yds/dz
=24.21 + 1.69 yds/dz
= 25.90 yds/dz
= 25.90/12 yds/piece
= 2.16 yds/piece

Note : Short cut way of fabric consumption determination is not so accurate as elaborate way determination system.But it is easy and time saved way.

Conclusion: 
Consumption determination is a very important term in garments section. Thought fabric covers the greatest part of garments costing, so we should have better knowledge about fabric consumption determination.

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