## General Discussion on Fabric Structure and Analysis Part-3

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Explain Briefly the Major Constructional Differences Between Pointed and Herringbone Twill Weave:

Pointed Twill Weave:
It is the simplest and one of the most important modifications of twill weave produced by reversing the direction of twill at suitable interval A point is sellected (usually the last warp is sellected) as the reversing point and so it is sometime call as point twill. In this twill pointed or straight draft is used. This twill is produced by combining S and Z twist. According to reversing of direction there are two type of zigzag twill:
1. Horizontal zigzag twill.
2. Vertical zigzag twill.
1. Horizontal pointed twill:
When the reversal direction of twill line occur upon the warp yarn,it result a horizontal zigzag twill,Here the basic twill is extended in warp direction.Here the number of warp yarn in a repeat is double of the number of weft.In horizontal zigzag twill pointed draft is used.
 Horizontal pointed twill
2. Vertical pointed twill:
When the reversal direction of twill line occur upon the weft yarn,it result a vertical zigzag twill,Here the basic twill is extended in weft direction.Here the number of weft yarn in a repeat is double of the number of warp.In Vertical zigzag twill straight draft is used.
 Vertical pointed twill
Hearing Bone Twill:
This twill are constracted in a different manner from the ordinary zigzag twill.Though it also depend on reversal of twill direction Here reversal direction occurs after a middle line.Here at first the basic twill is drown then the number of central point is selected in zigzag twill.Rather in exdended second half of basic twill the following matter happened.
• The floating point of first half become down in second half.
• The down of first half become floating in second half.
In hearing bone twill straight draft is used.There are two type of hearing bone design
1. Horizontal hearing bone twill.
2. Vertical hearing bone twill.
Horizontal hearing bone twill:
When hearing bone twill is created by extending the basic twill in warp direction,horizontal hearing bone result.
 Horizontal hearing bone twill
Vertical hearing bone twill:
When hearing bone twill is created by extending the basic twill in weft direction,horizontal hearing bone result.
 Vertical hearing bone twill
Explain Fully the Various Reasons for the Construction of Twill Weave:
Twill weave are extensively used in manufacturing cloth for garments household cloth and industrial cloth.
1. Generally dimond,diaper and zigzag twill are used for making pillow,cover,screen,unpholstery,bed sheet,towel etc.
2. Continious twill are used for making fabric for shirting,suiting and pantin(denim,gaverdine).
3. For making various type of ornamental cloth,other derivatives of twill weave are used.
4. Hearing bone twill are used in the cloth of suiting and overcoats.
References
1. Textile design & Colors (Seventh Edition) by Watson & Gronski.
2. Woven Cloth Construction; by Robinson & Mark.
3. The American Cotton Handbook volume 2 by Dames S. Hamby.
4. An Overview of Twill Weave by Md. Rubel Miah Department of Textile engineering World University of Bangladesh. (http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/07/different-types-of-twill-weave.html)

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Mazharul Islam Kiron is a textile consultant and researcher on online business promotion. He is working with one European textile machinery company as a country agent. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.