Effects of Enzyme Wash on Denim Garments

Effects of Enzyme Wash on Denim Garments
Authors: FARHAN HABIB, MD. REZAUL KARIM,  
MD. TANZIL HASAN, ADNAN MAROOF KHAN, SUMAN MIR,  
MD. MAMUNUR NASIM, LAMYA ZAHIR, IBNEY MONJUZUL KHALID
Department of the Apparel Manufacturing
Bangladesh University of Textiles
 
 


INTRODUCTION
Denim is a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. Denim has been in American usage since the late eighteenth century. Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans," though "jean" then denoted a different, lighter cotton textile;
Washed denim
There are three basic weaves:
  1. Plain weave
  2. Twill weave
  3. Satin Weave
Most of the other weaves are derived from three basic weaves. Denim is a derivative of Twill weave.

Denim Dying
Type of dye used : Indigo

Dyeing : Ring dyeing

Dyeing process used:
  • Continuous Indigo-Rope dyeing and sizing.
  • Continuous Indigo dyeing and sizing.
  • Indigo-back beam dyeing and sizing.
  • Continuous dyeing and sizing.
Types of Enzyme :
  1. Acid enzyme
  2. Neutral enzyme
Form Available :
  • Liquid form
  • Powder form
Recipe Used in Sepal

Recipe for Desizing:
  • Water ...................................................: 100 liter
  • Desizing agent (Ecosize AM )................ : 50 gm
  • Anti back-staining agent .........................: 20 gm
  • Temp .....................................................: 60˚ C
  • Time ......................................................: 15 min
Rinsing 2 ties with 150 liter of water each time.

Sample Recipe for washing:
  • Water................. : 60 liter
  • M:L .................... : 1:170
  • Acetic acid............ : 10 gm
  • pH..........................:5.5
Liquid enzyme (GENZYME 200)
  • Anti back-staining agent ....... : 20 gm
  • Pumic stone.......................... : 1 mug(1.5 kg)
  • Temp.................................... : 45˚ C
  • Time .....................................: 30 min
  • PH ........................................: 4.5-5.0
Recipe for neutralization:
  • Water............................ : 100 liter
  • Soda ash....................... : 20 gm
  • Time ............................. : 3 min
  • Temp ............................ : 45˚ C
Rinsing for 2 times with 150 liter water each time

HYDRO-EXTRACTING:
  • Time....................... : 1.5-2.0 min
DRYING:
  • Type ...................: Gas dryer
  • Temp.................. : 80˚ C
  • Time .................. : 30-40 min
Recipe Used in HAMS
Desizing Recipe:
  • Water ............................: 100 L
  • Soda ash ...................... : 100 gm
  • ID eco (detergent).......... : 60 gm
  • Time............................... : 15 min
  • Temp.............................. : 60 c
Rinse two times .

Powder + Liquid enzyme recipe
  • Water.................... : 100 L
  • M:L....................... : 1:170
  • Acetic acid .............: 30 gm
Powder + liquid enzyme : 10 gm
  • ID eco .................. : 50 gm
  • Temp .....................: 45 c
  • Time....................... : 30 minute
Rinse to times

HYDRO-EXTRACTING:
  • Time : 1.5-2.0 min
DRYING:
  • Type ...............: Gas dryer
  • Temp .............. : 80˚ C
  • Time................ : 30-40 min
Effect on GSM

  1. GSM is higher while washing with liquid enzyme than others
  2. GSM is lower for undesized washing sample than desized sample.
  3. GSM is lower while washing with stone.
Min Difference (390-389)*100/390=0.25%    In case of sample 3. (L.E+Undesized)
Max Difference (390-374)*100/390=4.10%   In case of sample 22.(P.E+Desized+Stone)

Effect on Count (Warp)

  1. Very Small variation in Count for different washing.
  2. Stone wash causes finer count.
  3. Count is lower in powder washing than liquid washing.
Min difference - (9-9)*100/9=0%
Max Difference - (9-11)*100/9=22.2%

Effect on Count(Weft)

  1. Very Small variation in Count for different washing.
  2. Stone wash causes finer count.
  3. Count is lower in powder washing than liquid washing.
Min difference - (9-9)*100/9=0%
Max difference - (9-7)*100/9=22.2%

Effect on EPI 

  1. EPI and PPI can be changed due to shrinkage.
  2. EPI of the samples varies from 71 to 73.
  3. No or little change occur in washing.
Min Difference (72-72)*100/72=0%
Max Difference (72-71)*100/72=1.38%

Effect on PPI 

  1. EPI and PPI can be changed due to shrinkage.
  2. PPI of the samples varies from 41 to 42.
  3. No or little change occur in washing.
Min difference (41-41)=0
Max difference (42-41)=1

Effect on Shrinkage (warp)

  1. Shrinkage occurs in washing.
  2. Warp way shrinkage is more than weft way shrinkage.
  3. Stone washing causes more shrinkage
Less Difference (350-330)*100/350=5.71% in case of sample 11
More Difference (350-110)*100/350=68.57% in case of sample 6

Effect on Shrinkage (weft)

  1. Shrinkage occurs in washing.
  2. Warp way shrinkage is more than weft way shrinkage.
  3. Stone washing causes more shrinkage
More Difference (180-150)*100/180=16.67% in case of sample 26
Less Difference (180-160)*100/180=11.11% in case of sample 25

Effect on Stiffness (warp)

  1. Stiffness is more in liquid washing than powder washing.
  2. Stiffness is less in stone washing.
  3. Stiffness reduces after washing
Min Difference (Warp) 3.125 (sample 18)
Max Difference (Warp) 3.875 (sample 2)

Effect on Stiffness (weft)

  1. Stiffness is more in liquid washing than powder washing.
  2. Stiffness is less in stone washing.
  3. Stiffness reduces after washing.
Min Bending Length 2.2 (sample 19)
Max Bending Length 2.4 (sample 14)

Effect on Strength (warp)

  1. Strength reduces in stone washing.
  2. Strength is more in undesized sample than desized sample.
  3. Strength reduces in washing
Min Difference Warp 1%
Max Difference Warp 9%

Effect on Strength (weft)

  1. Stiffness is more in liquid washing than powder washing.
  2. Stiffness is less in stone washing.
  3. Stiffness reduces after washing
Min Difference Weft 0%
Max difference Weft 2.5% 
 
Published by
S.M. Hossen Uzzal
B.Sc. in Textile Technology
Monno Fabrics Ltd. Manikgonj

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