A Report on Composite Textile Mill Visit

Dragon Sweater (BD) Ltd.
Mia Bazar, Chouddogram, Comilla

ORGANOGRAM:
ED→ Director→ GM→ Admin→ Administration→ PM→ APM→ Floor Incharge→ Supervisor→ Operator→ Worker

FLOW CHART OF PRODUCTION PROCESS:
Spinning→ Dyeing→ Knitting→ Linking→ Continue→ Light Check→ Mending→ Sewing→ Washing→ Ironing→ Pre QC 1→ Pre QC 2→ QC Check→ Packing→ Cartooning→ Shipping
Textile mill
WINDING SECTION:
Following types of yarns are processed here
  1. 100% Acrylic
  2. 100% Cotton
  3. AC (60/40)
  4. PC (30/70)
  5. Nylon Cotton
  6. Tube yarn
  7. Tape yarn
  8. Feather yarn/ Sheenal
  9. Pop corn
  10. Baby loop
  11. Highly loop
  12. Mohair
  13. Lycra
  14. Different melange
These types of yarns are identified hand feeling & visual appearance. Here dyed yarns in skein form are wound on cone of 3/4 lbs. The rpm of the motor of winding m/e is 1400. 8 cones can be wind at a time. The dia of hexagonal frame is 29”. Here non precession winding is done by the surface contact rotation of grooved roller. Sometimes 2 or more plies of yarn wind in the same cone. The drive mechanism of this m/c is rotary cylinder drive.

KNITTING SECTION:
Following parts of sweater are prepared in the flat bed knitting m/c on the fashioning technology.
  1. Front part
  2. Back part
  3. Sleeve
  4. Neck
  5. Lace, Rope etc.
Here following gauge are available and following yarns are feed

3GG→5/6 Ply
5GG→3/4
7GG→2
12GG→1

Latch needle are used here.

Different Parts of the Knitting m/c:
  1. Needle bed
  2. Needle
  3. Gear handle (body gear)
  4. Scale
  5. Cam
  6. Round key
  7. Tensioner
  8. Stand brush
  9. Yarn controller
  10. Guide
  11. Side weight
  12. Weight stand
After preparing the yarns are attached to represent the different parts.

Green→S
Red→M
Yellow→L
Black→XL
White→XXL

Following designs are produced:
  • Single jerssy→ on the body, sleeve
  • Rib 1×1 2×1 2×2 etc.→ Wrist, cuff, body, sleeve, neck
  • Segger→ body, front part, bottom part
  • Pine apple→ on the front part
  • Cable→ on the front part
  • Purl → lace, body
  • Color stripe
And many of the designs as to the buyer choices.

LINKING SECTION:
Here different separate parts of the sweater are joined together. Acrylics, Cotton, Melang yarn are used. 3GGG, 5GG, 7GG, & 12GG m/cs are available here. The motor of linking m/c is 1420 rpm, 50Hz, ½ HP, 110/220V. Sometimes to produce design on the body stitching is done by linking m/c.

Stitch type→ 101
4 over 1 overlocking m/c are used to protect the seam at sholder, neck.

Stitch type→ 406
Seam class 1→Arm hole, body joining
Seam class 4→Neck, collar joining
Seam class 2→Lace, Zipper joining

CONTINUE SECTION:
While producing of color stripe or finishing of knitted parts there remain extended yarn. In this section these types of uncut yarns are removed manually by cutter. The extended portions of the stitch are joined on the fabric by needle manually.

LIGHT CHECK:
There are hole on prepared sweater parts due to needle miss or hung weight or during narrowing. To find out different faults light checking is done by wearing sweater parts on dummy shape. Then faults are identified and marked by yarn by knotting.

MENDING SECTION:
The holes on the sweater are filled here manually by the latch needle. Cotton or acrylic yarns are used to carry out this operation.

SEWING SECTION:
Here versatile tasks are done by the following m/cs.

Single needle lock stitch m/c: In this m/c attachment of fastening device zipper, size level, care level are done.

Stitch type 301 Bar taking m/c: Frequent no of stitches are sewn on certain place for reinforcements. Usually it’s done on the bottom of the body& armhole joining. Stitch type 103

Button holing m/c: Button holing is done by this m/c on the sweater. Again the side of button hole is sewn here.

Button attaching m/c: By this automatic m/c button is attached on the specific place. Generally2/4 hole button is used. Stitch type is 104

4 over 1 overlocking m/c: Such m/cs are used to protect the seam at shoulder, neck. Stitch type 406

All this m/cs are of Jucky Company. 2 ply Cotton, polyester yarn are used here.

WASHING SECTION:
The aim of this section is to remove the ambient dirt, dust, oil spots during processing & also to soften the sweater. Usually this process is done by applying
  • Surf excel→250gm
  • Jet detergent→250gm
  • Time and Temperature
  • 100% Acrylic→60 C 25 min
  • 100% Cotton→70 C 25 min
  • Mixed Fibre→70 C 20 min
There temp is raised by steam. After washing, rinsing is carried out for 2 3 mins. In the case of softening 500gm Softex are applied. To remove the hardness of the water oxalic acid are used. Otherwise it create iron mark on light or white colored goods. After washing to squeeze excess water the wet sweater are run on hydro extractor for 5 6 mins.

At last drying is done on dryer.
  • 100% Acrylic→25 min
  • 100% Cotton→45 min
  • Mixed Fibre→30 min
IRONING:
It’s just to recover shrinkage, size and to have good dimensional stability. Steam of 120 C is applied on the different place of the sweater placing ply card of specific size on it. It’s applied for 2 3 mins from the 2.5 inch above by the iron. Ply card are prepared according to the different of sizes that supplied by buyer.

PRE QC-1 & PRE QC-2:
Here two steps of quality checks are done before final check. Uncut threads are removed, mending is done if required. Here clearing gun is used to remove oil or light spot. Hence volatile solvent named air brush water is sprayed. Its application is below 5 mins to avoid harmful effects.

QC CHECK:
Here following measurement are rechecked besides the checking of seam joining/ strength.
  1. Chest
  2. Active chest
  3. Body length
  4. Sleeve length
  5. CB to Sleeve length
  6. Arm hole
  7. Biceps
  8. Neck drop
  9. Neck height
  10. Neck width
  11. Back Neck drop
  12. Wrist
  13. Wrist height
  14. Cuff
  15. Cuff height
  16. Hip
  17. Shoulder
  18. Plackets
  19. Bottom
General Tasks:
  • Removal of uncut thread of the sewing section
  • Mending on hole
  • Zippers on accurate line
  • Different spots
  • Accurate weight Button, levels are on accurate place
  • Dissimilarity on shade on sweater
PACKING :
After super check the sweater are folded. Hangtag is attached & packed on polybag. Usually hangtag, ball pin, polybag etc are supplied by buyer.

CARTOONING:
It’s done manually. Cartoons are supplied by buyer which contains a lot of information. Sizes of the cartoon are 810mm×470mm×260mm or so on. The blaster of sweater is of 12 pieces & so on maintaining following.
  • XS→2 pieces
  • S→3
  • M→4
  • L→2
  • XL→1
Net weight 10kg Gross weight 11.kg so on Blasters are prepared according to size ratio, color or buyer choice.

OTHER SECTION:
  1. Workshop
  2. Store
  3. Electrical
  4. Boiler
  5. Compliance
  6. R & D
DYEING SECTION:
w/v gm in 100 ml of water
v/v cc in (100-cc) rest of water
The stock soln are prepared by the applying the following formula.
For the %, the formula can be written as,

Required CC = (w x p)/c ml

Where as,
W = wt of the sample
P = shade %
C = stock soln %

Again for the g/l, the formula can be written as,

Required CC = (w x p)/c ml

Where as,
W = total liquor (lit) = (wt of sample x L)/ 1000 ml
P = recipe amount in g/l
C = stock soln %

Again for the bulk production the formula can be written as,
Required reagent = (material weight x recipe amount %)
Required reagent = (total liquor liter x recipe amount g/l)

Here,
Sample weight is → 5gm
Dyestuff stock soln → 0.1% (.5gm on 500ml, 1gm on 1000ml)
Chemical stock soln → 1.0%
Dyeing is carried out → 9 C × 20˜25 min (atm pressure)
M:L→1:40 (200ml)

Addition or subtraction of color is done by %. In the cases of re-dyeing additional % is counted.

Generally primary colors that are used
  • Yellow 4GNT (light)
  • Golden Yellow BRT (deep)
  • Red GRLT
  • Blue RGNT
But for the Black
  • B-ABT
  • GY-BRT
  • R-GRLT
  • B-RGNT
  • M-Green
Chemicals T-PAN Leveling Agent [(Σall syestuff-1.8) %] AN Auxiliary
To maintain PH→4, 10CC CH3COOH are added on 25 liter of H2O.

Fiber
Temp(0C)
Light (min)
Medium (min)
Deep (min)
Cotton
60
25
40˜35
70˜50
Acrylic
98
20
30
50
Nylon
100˜110
30
40
60

Fiber
Chemicals
Cotton
T-PAN, AN
Acrylic
TRL, NaSO4, NaCO3
Nylon
KPN, CH3COOH
Wool
KPN

100% Cotton (white)
After scouring properly
BF 70→ 0.5gm/l
White BYB→ 0. 8%

Color out
NaHSO4→ 5gm/l
NaCO3→ 2gm/l

Cold wash 01
NaOH → 0.5gm/l or NaCO3→ 1gm/l
H2O2→ 2gm/l
BF 70→ 1gm/l

Cold wash 02
HAC→ 4%
H/S→ 4%

100% Cotton
Soaping (98oC x 10 min)
BF 70→ 1.0gm/l
PLG 1500→ 0.5gm/l
EA 20/10→ 0.5gm/l
NaOH→ 1.5gm/l
H2O2→ 2.5gm/l

Cold wash 01
HAC→ 0.5gm/l (30oC x 10 min)

Hot wash
H/S 10→ 1.5gm/l 90oC x 20 min)

Cold wash 02
HAC→ 0.5gm/l (30oC x 10 min)
100% Cotton Dyeing at 40oC ˜ 60oC

Chemicals
.01˜.5 %
.5˜1 %
1˜3 %
3˜6 %
Over
Na2SO4
15
30
50
60
70
Na2CO3
8
10
20
20
20

1
1
1
1
1

 Steeping
NaOH→ 0.5gm/l or NaCO3→ 1gm/l (98oC x 50 min) 
 
Author of This Article:
Naha N Hasan
B.Sc. in Wet Processing
Noakhali Textile Engineering College

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