Industrial Button Hole Machine | Specification of Button Hole Machine

Name of the Experiment: Study of Industrial Button Hole machine.

There are many types of sewing machine. Some are used for special purposes such as Button Attaching machine, Bar tack machine etc. This type of machines works in a cycle and so these are called simple automatic machine. Here we study on a type of machine that is Button hole machine.

1. To know about the machine parts.
2. To know about the thread path.
3. To draw the thread path diagram of button holing machine.
4. To know different parts of button holing machine.
5. To know the working principle of button holing machine.
6. To know the types of needle, its no, size, SPM, group, TPI of the machine.
7. To know about the button holing machine.

Brand : JUKI
Model : LBH/781
Group : Lock stitch
Needle use : DPX5
Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21
SPM : 3000-3600
TPH : 6-7 inch
Pressure : 123

Different parts:
1. Bobbin winding 
2. Bobbin winding spring tensioner 
3. Back stitch lever
4. Driver wheel
5. Driven wheel
6. Spring tensioner post box 
7. Thread guide 
8. Knife lever 
9.Thread take-up lever
13.Pressure feed guide 
14.Throat plate
16.Bobbin case

Main Adjustment Points:
1. Thread. 
2. Tensioner. 
3. Needle.
4. Pressure feed. 
5. Stitch density. 
6. Looper.

This machine works in cyclic system i.e. during pressing switch after sewing one complete button hole the machine will stop. In fully automatic button hole m/c more than one i.e. pre-selected no. of button holes can be sewn in pre-selected distance. In this system no mark is needed on cloth for button hole. In button hole m/c there is system to make big or small button hole and also to increase or decrease the stitch density. Usually lock stitch or chain stitch is used here. Button hole can be made before or after sewing. Both system has some advantage and disadvantage. If hole is made before then the cut edge is closed in sewing and the button hole is seen very good and clean. But the disadvantage is that after starting sewing there is no chance to change the button hole place & cut edge disturbs to sew well due to flagging. But disadvantage is thread of cloth is come out along the sewing line of button hole that looks very bad. Usually for dense woven & coarse cloth before sewing, for thin cloth after sewing button hole is made.

Fig: Industrial Button Hole machine.
A=Cone package
D=Spring box tensioner
H=Thread cutting ever
I=Take up lever
J=Trimming lever
M=Throat plate
N=Cutting knife
To make button hole in different apparels.

This type of machine can not be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment their importance can not be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this will be very helpful in my future life. 

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Mazharul Islam Kiron is a textile consultant and researcher on online business promotion. He is working with one European textile machinery company as a country agent. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.

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