The Way of Smart Merchandising

The Way of Smart Merchandising
Muhammad Nurul Alam
Senior Merchandiser | Asmara BD Pvt. Ltd. | Dhaka | Bangladesh
Cell: +8801930540035
E-mail : alam@asmarabd.com




Introduction:
Do you know what is the working hour for a merchandiser in Bangladesh . Believe or not Merchandisers in Bangladesh are working more than 13-14 hours as regular job & some time much more . Always they are busy with hundreds of work schedule but nothing can be completed within office hour . So they have to stay in work place up-to late night . You can’t say this is only inefficiency of their profession because most of the time they are over loaded . The owners are having a cost minimizing tendency so they hire a Merchandiser instead of two or more without considering the demand of work load . As a result a merchandiser always fail to enjoy their regular life & gets tired . They loss their innovative force & feel exhausted in older years . We often see merchandiser who aged beyond 45-50 either loss their job or stay in the organization as a good for nothing . Owners don’t want to pay higher salary for him though they already have taken valuable energy ,time & work force in early age . This is really shocking that now they feel you are not to be used . Yes , right now we have to think how can take the best from our life period . Whatever the age we should have to keep energy & not to be exhausted . We can think for us from today & prepare a new deal for your career . To make easy & to be smarter merchandiser in our way of working please let us do something different . Today we are going to discuss how you can manage your thousands of job in a limited period of hours & can keep maximum energy .
Merchandiser work in office
Merchandiser work in office
1) Make a list of all your job:
This is very important what you are doing to keep it in your daily schedule . It would be better to make schedule 1st daily than weekly & finally monthly . Why this is important to do list ? First of all we are human being. So this is not possible to keep everything in our mind & to do the thing in priority basis . Usually a Merchandiser has to work through lots of stress as well as difficulties . For which this is not surprising if you see he is forgetting to do some most important task that should have to perform in first priority . The second thing is – when we see thousands of task that we have to perform within a very short period of time our nerves gets week . we feel exhausted & fatigue . So by the making schedule we can easily prioritize your task & get the most important & urgent thing .

The below diagram will help everyone to do list in the work priority . This may take little time to make your habit with the method but believe me the method is really effective .


Urgent
Not Urgent
Important
  1. Fabric booking
  2. Yarn procurement
  3. Price for new query
  4. PP sample submission
  1. Recape meeting with senior
  2. Production up-date
  3. Bulk Lot shade approval
  4. Factory visit & get the production status
Not Important
  1. File & Sample organizing
  2. System Up-date
  3. Price review
  1. New product collection
  2. Develop product knowledge
  3. Knowing up-date product status of other customer
2) Don’t put task for tomorrow:
Just keep in mind that tomorrow never come . If you are thinking today is for relax & tomorrow will be your busy day that would be unrealistic . Actually it does not happen because tomorrow you will see new task has added to do & in this way task will be more . One day without doing your important task means you are going to burden yourself for tomorrow .So whatever you think that should have be done today from your task priority list , do it immediately . Never wait for tomorrow.

3) Check double/Triple which is mathematical:
Usually a merchandiser works in a rush movement so sometimes it is not possible to do all the mathematical task in cool mind . Suppose you are going to book fabric or yarn . Here you have to calculate some figure to get the fabric amount that can be used for bulk . but for the all rush movement you made little mistake & proceeded for procurement . Your delivery time may be very short so without any revision of your booking hand over it to supplier & finally when the fabric in-housed it was identified what mistake you have done earlier during fabric booking. May be you mistake in color name or fabrication is wrong . Instead of 90/10 cotton/elastane you received fabric in 100% cotton . This is due to you worked in an old work order sheet where fabric was booked in 100% cotton & in the new sheet fabrication was not changed . The mistake is very little but outcome is devastating . To save time you did not give a cross check on the sheet & now all of your production schedule has gone to drain . This is really measurable when you will see your fabric is in-housed but cannot meet delivery date . Now again book the fabric newly & shipped the goods by air due to you missed delivery date . Actually this would not happen if you are careful & taking extra time give revision twice or triple . If you can take help from your colleague to see the booking as second party . This will help you to avoid extra hassle & to utilize your time properly . Here you can keep some key for cross check . cross check means the figure that should be off course changed in new booking . For fabric booking check the below
  • Fabric composition .
  • Fabric construction .
  • Fabric color .
  • Fabric width .
  • Finally Fabric Qty .
4) Don’t miss any mail:
A single mail can change total output . If you are not properly look into your mail & work through of it you may miss some important information . So read your every single mail & share the mail with all the relevant party . Don’t keep it in your box only . If you have some mail that you should give answer please keep it in red mark so that it will not go out of your track .

5) Don’t do a task twice:
This is actually relevant to point no 3 . Take extra time to do anything but don’t think you will do it twice or 2nd time you will get the opportunity to do it again . Suppose you are in great rush hour to submit sample, giving mail repeatedly to factory to submit the sample in certain date along with lots of phone call . Finally received it but factory made mistake to follow earlier comments what buyer has given . That means the sample is rejected & is not ok to send buyer . Again the sample is made following the comments but it was late one week . So all your production plan got delayed because of not to submit the sample due date . Actually from beginning you could avoid all the delay & wrong thing . If you could take just extra 15 minutes to check the change that buyer want in the earlier comment or before stitching you could visit factory & check everything that sample is going in right way it would help you to save time & energy . Take extra minute to do anything .

5) Do extra work just one day:
In your ‘to do list’ you got some task that has to be done by this week but you are engaged so much in some important meeting so could not able to work on weekly schedule . Now what can you do ? Use only one day to work extra hour in the week . Never think to do it every day . You can work extra hour at the last working day of a week so that the next day you can do relax & enjoy family . So a day for a week can be your extra hour to finish pending task . This will help you to minimize your work load .

6) Make a good relation with everyone to get job done early:
This is said that everyone is king in his own work place . May be the person is a lab in charge . As job routine he is bound to do what are all your requirement because owner assigned him to do job what merchandiser demand in related to lab issue . But this is also true he keeps schedule in his every day to do list as per queue . So you cannot ask for lab dip just in a day where as he has hundreds of lab making in the schedule . Here if you have good relation with the person it will be easy to get lab dip though you are not in the queue . So make a good relation to all the department even a person who is in a worker level . Never underestimate any one . Respect all to get respect from every one .

7) Utilize down time:
Usually success comes from the time which is not usually counted by the commners . Because to do extra work there are no alternative way except utilizing down time . Down time means – the time what you are just doing nothing or doing one more job simultaneously . Suppose you are just stucked in the traffic jam which is very common in our city life . It is often seen people are just seating in the jam & trying to blame the system . But if you want to use your down time ,this can be an opportunity for you . Take journal or book & start reading . That means all of your time can be used properly . On the other hand you can use down time in different way . May be you are having lunch .This may take 15 minutes to finish . During your lunch time you can listen radio news in your mobile . This will help you to get up-date information about what is happening around you . your busy life will not stop you to be up-dated in a new day .

8) Keep proper tracking whatever your are doing:
We are human being . So sometime this is not possible to keep everything in our memory . In the merchandising no one can you say everything is in tracking unless he follows some basic rules . The basic rules of keeping track is ‘put down notes’ in your excel sheet or note book . Make a excel sheet & put all your information whatever you receive every day . Put the date on the stuff what you receive from buyer & what you send to buyer . keep same information on the submitted items to avoid any kinds of confusion between you & buyer . Keep your sample / swatch in a place where anything may not be lost . Make sure to keep separately all your important items to be understood by everyone or to get it in your absence . You can follow below rules to keep tracking .
  • Put date on everything .
  • Up-date & review your excel sheet every day .
  • Keep hard copy of all your important mail . Because some time you may not be in net service when the information is required .
  • Put your excel saved in your draft mail to find the data available incase computer is got effected by the harmful virus .
  • Don’t forget to send a mail to any consignee whenever you are sending sample /swatch .
9) Keep all approval in hand :
Don’t miss any of your approval that received from buyer . Suppose fabric quality , sample or trims whatever comments on submission please keep in proper way so that it will not loss . If you have several submission on particular item that sent to buyer make sure to keep date & comment for each submission . This will help you not to be haphazard among the all submission .

10) Don’t miss to put anything on mailing correspondence :
Some time you may feel unnecessary to put things in the mail whatever discussion you did in phone or verbal communication with someone . In reality this is very important & never delay to put the content you discussed in a written document /mail to prove the conversation . Suppose a trim supplier confirmed you in a particular date to deliver the item over the phone . As you feel the commitment is definitely will be met so did not put the conversation in mail . But in the due date you get the supplier denied to deliver the item & ignored his commitment . So if you could keep the commitment in a written document it would be easier to hold him . Believe me this is most effective to make easy your job ,keeping things in mail .

11) Keep clean your desk :
A merchandiser has to do hundreds of job in a day so this is quite natural if his desk gets occupied by lots of stuff like paper , swatch , trims etc. Every day new items come to you & your surrounding is seeming a little store of fabric , sample & with others thing . You feel over loaded as your desk is overloaded by working stuff . How can you clean your desk to make free from all kinds dizzy materials ? This is really challenging for you rather than your daily job . Some time we feel keeping things on desk is not a problem & this is actually to get the things in hand . Believe me if your boss or others want to see anything in your obscene from the desk they might be puzzled & confused what to take & what to not take . So use only 30 minutes to keep clean your desk & put all the stuff in particular folder so that anyone can find any important item . This will make your job easy . Remember ‘The true competition lies is not what we do, but how we do it’.

12) Take suggestion if you are in trouble :
The universal truth is – two head is better than one head . That means if you are trying to do something counsel with other so that you can work more efficiently with less error . Never think you are the perfect one & no need to take suggestion from others . In other way this is called – cheer leader .Cheer leader is your boss , co-worker , friend so If you want to be in track & to do the correctly must discuss with fellow people. Definitely this will ease your job .

13) Filing & updating :
A merchandiser means lots of file & documents, so maintaining file for the each order & keeping the necessary stuff is very important . Actually this is little similar to the point ‘Keep clean your desk’. However this is specifically to put the thing in file properly . How your file will look ? where to keep it ? what name can be given to each file ? there are lots of issue that should have to take in consideration if are really interested to be a smarter merchandiser . To do your task in smart way you need to think about your file . Suppose where to keep it ? always try to keep your important file close to your hand so that you might not be haphazardly looking for your file when you need . Here some suggestion how to keep file –
  • Put a name for your file in bold letter .
  • Put all the information on top of the file ,example – style name , PO no , Qty , & a garment sketch .
  • Your file should be clean & need to keep all the paper in a chronological way .
  • For easy understanding you can use divider to keep separate the subject matter .
  • Use folder to keep different submission ,off course don’t forget to write date .
  • Use metal cliff so that the file can be use for long time .
  • If you receive revised PO please make sure to keep it in file & keep a cross mark on old PO .
  • Never remove any paper from your file ,if Pos are revised keep date on old file & write on top of it why this is changed . 

Scope of Fabric Testing

Scope of Fabric Testing:
The performance of a fabric is ultimately related to the end-use conditions of a material. The physical, chemical, physiological and biological influences on fabrics affect their end-use performance. Although all agents affect textile performance at the fiber, yarn and fabric levels, emphasis is generally given to fabrics since they represent the largest class of textile structures in a variety of applications.
Scope of Fabric Testing
Thus, a fabric is usually the most complex and representative form of a textile structure that is subjected to these agents and influences in most end uses. Testing of fabrics and quality control is broad in its scope. It can include, for instance, the means for determining and controlling the quality of a manufactured product. It can be used to measure the outside factors that influence the test results. Testing of fabrics to the above influences of a physical, chemical and biological nature would be of great help to manufacturers in adjusting their process control parameters to produce the right material.

Physical testing
The first broad class of factors that affect the performance of fabrics are factors that influence the test results. Testing of fabrics to the above influphysical agents and influences. These may be further subdivided into mechanical deformation and degradation, tactile and associated visual properties of fabrics (such as wrinkling, buckling, drape and hand) after their use and manufacture, and their response to heat, liquids and static charge. The testing of fabrics to mechanical deformation is very important and refers to fabrics that are subjected to variable and complex modes of deformation. They include tensile behavior, compression, bending or flexing, shrinkage, abrasion resistance, frictional rubbing, torsion or twisting, and shear.

Chemical testing
Chemical and photochemical exposure of textiles may lead to yellowing or discolouration of undyed fabrics, to fading of dyed fabrics, and/or to degradation of dyed and undyed fabrics. These adverse results are due to depolymerization of the polymer chain in the fibre that may occur by hydrolysis, oxidative processes and/or crosslinking. Textile fabrics have varying degrees of resistance to chemical agents such as water and other solvents, to acids, bases and bleaches, to air pollutants and to the photochemical action of ultraviolet light. Resistance to chemical agents is dependent on fibre type chemical nature of the dyes, additives, impurities, finishes present in the fiber, and to a lesser extent on the construction and geometry of the fabric.

Biological testing
Textile fabrics may be adversely affected by various microorganisms and insects. The effect of biological agents on textile fabrics is important for enhancing their end-use performance in many areas. Testing of fabrics and evolution of specific test methods for the above biological influences would help manufacturers, retailers and users of fabrics to develop strategic ways to maintain and protect their fabrics in storage and transportation. These tests would be useful for rapid screening of various modified and unmodified fabrics for their ability to withstand biological attack.

Visual examination
Visual examination of fabrics includes evaluating the texture, surface characteristics, dye shade variations, design details, weave patterns, construction particulars, pilling assessment, etc. Defect analysis is another major area today and is widely discussed in the textile industry. Defects are bound to occur in fabric during manufacture for a number of reasons.

The complex problem of fabric quality control through defect analysis may be solved by means of computer vision using advanced digital signal and image processing tools. Many of these image processing applications aim at detecting textural characteristics and textural defects of fabrics, including color detection and dye shade variations.

Intelligence testing
In the last decade, research and development in smart/intelligent materials and structures have led to the birth of a wide range of novel smart products in aerospace, transportation, telecommunications, homes, buildings and infrastructures.

Intelligent textiles are fibers and fabrics with a significant and reproducible automatic change of properties due to defined environmental influences.

Physiological testing
Three important physical parameters that are instrumental in the physiological processes of fabrics are heat transmission, moisture transport and air permeability. The physiological properties of fabrics relate to what the fabric or garment feels like when it is worn next to the skin, such as too warm, too cold, sweaty, allergic, prickly, etc.

Therefore, in the assessment of a fabric or garment for a particular end use, the comfort of that product is considered to be very important. Fabric testing therefore needs to address the comfort properties of fabrics.

Important Information for Professional Knitter

Important Information for Knitting Manager
Raju Tex
Knitting Technologist, B.J.Group
Chittagong Textile Engineering College




Introduction:
Knitting Manager is responsible for production of knitting section. Working in partnership with the technical and R&D teams, the professional knitter implements the strategy to execute opportunities for fabric plat forming and counter development within the Knits Category to ensure commercial decisions meet quality standards & cost engineering opportunities with the mills. He every time tries to produce maximum production. To become a successful professional knitter you should keep concept of the following knitting terms.
Knitwear
NECESSARY INFORMATION:

1.G.S.M.:
It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter.

2. Changing of G.S.M.:
The GSM of the fabric is change by altering the position of the tension pulley. If pulley move towards the positive direction then the GSM is decrease and in the reverse direction GSM will increase.

3. Points that should consider incase of G.S.M Changing:
  • Tension pulley
  • Cam position
  • Take up motion
4. Factors that should be changed in case of fabric design on quality change:
  • Cam setting
  • Tension pulley
  • Set of needle
  • Size of the loop shape
5. Recommendable points of a buyer:
  • Diameter of the fabric
  • Design of the fabric
  • GSM of the fabric
  • Total wt. of the fabric
  • Yarn count
  • Types of yarn
  • Color of the fabric
6. Gauge number that are usually seen in different m/c:
  • In case of rib m/c. 16 to 18 G are normally used. But in case of improved quality yarn 20G M/cs are used in European country.
  • Single jersey m/c are normally found 20, 24, 28 etc. Gauges.
7. Relation between yarn count and m/c gauge seen in different m/c.:

We know,

              G2
Ne = -------------
              18


Where, 
Ne = English Cotton Count
G = M/c. gauge.

8. Maximum and minimum G.S.M. Of a fabric for a particular yarn:
Types of m/c
Yarn count
Maximum GSM
Minimum GSM
Single Jersey m/c
20/1
240
120
Single Jersey m/c
30/1
165
100
Rib m/c
20/1
380
190
Rib m/c
30/1
180
130
 
9. Chemical that used in needle, sinker or m/c cleaning:
  • Needle and sinker: Petrol + Needle oil mixture.
  • Cylinder: At first wash with petrol and finally wash with needle oil.
10. Oil require per hour for each m/c:
  • More than one liter.
11. Weight losses after finish the fabric:
  • 6-7% weight losses on the basis of whole weight.
12. Weight increases per square meter after finish the fabric:
  • 15-16% weight increases per square meter.
13. Adjusting points of the knitting machine:
  • Feeder to needle (horizontal distance, 1 to 2 sinker thickness)
  • Feeder to needle (vertical distance, by feeder adjustment or by dia height adjustment)
  • Dial to Cylinder distance.
  • Sinker groove to Cylinder groove.
  • Tension and loop length.
  • Yarn tension adjustment.
  • Adjustable speed in motor driving shaft.
  • Change pinion in take up roller to perform tension.
14. Wastage of the factory:
  • Empty cartoon or yarn
  • Yarn and fabric wastage due to packing pin marks, yarn irregularity, re coning, knotting, recreating of new package on the knitting m/c, threading of knitting elements.
  • Drop out loops, broken needles, stripe effect, lack of supervision and worker’s negligence.